Review

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

  • Updated December 15, 2025
  • Natalia Dunn
  • 167 comments

À seize ans et vivant en République tchèque, Jan a commencé son aventure en photographie astronomique l'an dernier avec rien de plus qu'une caméra de téléphone. Depuis lors, il a progressé jusqu'à utiliser une caméra dédiée à l'astronomie, documentant chaque étape de son développement à travers une série d'images partagées dans l'ordre chronologique. Ces photos révèlent à la fois les améliorations et les retards occasionnels en termes de qualité, reflétant le processus naturel d'apprentissage inhérent à maîtriser cette pratique.

Jan espère que son expérience pourra motiver d'autres personnes qui commencent ou qui envisagent d'abandonner, en soulignant que la photographie astronomique exige du temps, de l'engagement et une vaste recherche. Bien que le chemin ne soit pas toujours facile, il trouve les résultats et la croissance personnelle extrêmement gratifiants. Inspiré par des créateurs tels qu'AstroBackyard et Cuiv the Lazy Geek, Jan reste motivé pour continuer à affiner ses compétences.

Son évolution technique a commencé avec un traitement basique dans DSS et des outils d'édition sur iPhone avant d'avancer vers PixInsight, où un saut notable de qualité s'est produit. En termes d'équipement, il a commencé avec un Celestron 127SLT 127 mm Mak et un appareil photo numérique, puis est passé à un setup Quattro 250p et EQ6R pro. Récemment, il a fait le passage à une astrocam et a effectué des améliorations importantes sur son télescope. Jan accueille les questions concernant son parcours et a inclus des images de ses différents équipements pour référence.

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

Voyage en photographie astronomique : La première année d'un adolescent

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167 Comments

  1. Nice shots! Are these all in visible light, or are you using any equipment to capture other wavelengths? I’m not familiar with the terminology or what the process would be called, so I apologize for my lack of knowledge.

    1. I don’t use any filters except for the last three images, which were taken with a narrowband filter. This filter isolates specific wavelengths of ionized blue and red gases. Slides 13 and 14 show the same targets, so you can see the difference. The filter enhances contrast and reduces interference from artificial light by focusing on narrow wavelengths. Nothing is fake—the colors and outer “wings” are all present in the visible light image. The filter actually makes the colors more accurate by removing the yellowish hue caused by sulfur lamps in nearby cities. If you have more questions, feel free to ask.

      1. I didn’t mean to imply anything was fake—that wasn’t my intention at all.

        I’m amazed that these are all visible light images. It’s incredible what we can see from such distances.

        The narrowband filter detail is interesting, and it clearly provides more accurate results. Both images are quite striking.

        Thanks for sharing these.

  2. Thank you for sharing your journey. It’s refreshing to see people speak from an honest place. Many of us hesitate to start because it feels overwhelming, as if we need to be perfect from the beginning. In reality, we all have to start small and somewhere. It’s inspiring when people share their path to motivate others to begin. I imagine it’s also a valuable practice for building a relationship with yourself and the cosmos. Thanks again.

  3. I really enjoyed this slideshow! The shot of the phone held up to the eyepiece especially resonated with me—that’s exactly how I started, and it’s what got me hooked. Before I knew it, I needed more equipment: a new rig, camera, mount—you know how the hobby pulls you in.

    It’s great to see your progression from beginning to end. You’ve captured some stunning images. Thanks for sharing your journey!

    1. I modeled and CNC machined a new one, but I still need to tap the thread. The original part was causing guiding issues after the meridian flip because it shifted and moved by about half a centimeter. If you decide to do this, make sure to properly mount and secure it in place to avoid similar problems.

      1. I used a ball and threaded rod to solve this. My mount was secondhand and came with only one 5 kg counterweight. Since I’m between jobs, buying another 5 kg weight for around 40–50€ wasn’t an option. I found a 2.5 kg ball with a threaded nut, attached it to the bottom of the counterweight shaft using the rod, and slid the 5 kg weight for balance. The whole setup cost less than 10€, and now the rig is perfectly balanced.

    1. It really depends on your needs. You can get a great beginner setup—such as a Star Adventurer GTI, a DSLR, and a small refractor or preferably a Newtonian telescope—for around $800 USD. If you’d like further help or have questions about serious astrophotography or my specific setup, feel free to send me a message.

  4. You do great work! A couple of your images really stand out, and I especially like your framing of the Crescent and the extra detail you captured in the Dumbell. Excellent job!

    1. Thank you, of course!

      Telescope: Skywatcher Quattro 250P
      Mount: EQ6R Pro
      Camera: ZWO ASI 2600MC Pro
      Guidescope: Evoguide 50ED
      Guidecam: ZWO ASI 715MC
      Narrowband filter: ANTLIA ALP-T 3nm HA + OIII

  5. If I could see any of this through my own eyes, I would be overwhelmed. I’m 40, disabled, and have lived in poverty my entire life. I admire what you do—you’re truly fortunate. Your images are beautiful and moved me to tears.

    1. Thank you! If you ever have the funds, consider buying a telescope. You can find a used Dobsonian for under $300, and it’s a fantastic experience. To clarify, you won’t see it exactly like this with your eyes, but you can definitely detect it. Cameras are much more sensitive and use long exposures to capture such detail.

  6. Pěkný teleskop!

    Já mám jen takový z roku 1980, který ani nefunguje.

    Mohu si stáhnout některé z těch obrázků? Neplánuji je nikde zveřejňovat, jsou jen pro mě.

    1. Jasně, kdytak mám Astrobin, jmenuji se tam Jan Hlavačka, kde mám vše v plném rozlišení. Tyto staré dalekohledy jsou často nejlepší, protože se v té době dělaly poctivě, pokud to nejsou refraktory se sklem.

    1. Over the past year, I’ve made significant progress by switching to strainwave mounts and primarily using CMOS sensors. With CCDs, you had to deal with amp glow, which is a glow in the image caused by the circuitry, and you needed to calibrate it out. Modern sensors barely require calibration frames, and if they do, it’s only the most critical ones.

  7. That’s truly impressive. Your English is quite well-written for a non-native speaker, and your astrophotography is remarkable. It’s hard to believe you’re only 16—both achievements are outstanding for someone your age.

  8. What kind of setup do you need to take photos like this? Can you see this directly through a telescope, or is it only possible through photography and shutter speed? I don’t know much about it, but I love space photos.

    1. I’m glad you like it! To be fair, you can’t see most objects through the eyepiece in the way you might imagine. This video gives a realistic idea of what to expect through a Dobsonian telescope under $500.

      If you’re interested in my specific setup, it’s shown on the last slide. Let me know if you have any other questions!

  9. I love the galaxy photos—they’re beautiful. This makes me want to get a real telescope. I’ve always enjoyed astronomy but never considered astrophotography. Since I took both photography and astronomy classes in college, maybe it’s time to get a telescope and study the stars more. The colors in your images are stunning. How much does a camera like that cost?

    1. This camera is quite expensive, costing around $1500 USD new. However, you don’t need one like mine. You could consider the 585mc Air, which is about $600 USD. It’s an all-in-one camera that includes a guide scope, an app to control everything—even the telescope—and the sensor itself. I’d be happy to help you choose a setup, as you’ll also need an equatorial mount for photography.

          1. Have you considered taking your scope to darker areas? I’m curious about the advantages—would it help you see fainter objects?

          2. This is a bit old now, but I finally managed to take my scope to our Bortle 3 family cottage. You can check out the results on my profile.

    1. That’s quite a bit of equipment. I’ve purchased almost everything used and will calculate prices based on US websites.

      Camera: ASI 2600MC Pro – New $1500 USD, bought for $1100

      Mount: EQ6R Pro – New $2000 USD, bought for $900, hypertuned with bearing upgrades

      Scope: Quattro 250P – Bought new for $1000 USD, with upgrades now valued around $1500-1700

      Guide camera: ASI 715MC Pro – Bought new for $200

      Guidescope: Evoguide 50ED – New $250, bought used for $160

      Controller: ASIAIR Plus 256GB – Bought new for $200 (a laptop could serve as an alternative)

      These costs might have been lower if I hadn’t chosen the ZWO ecosystem. The advantage is that I could likely sell everything for more than I paid, especially the tuned mount in pristine condition and the upgraded scope.

    2. If you’re also interested in getting into this hobby, I recommend checking the AstroBin marketplace and Cloudy Nights classifieds—you’ll need to create a free account for the latter.

    1. I’m glad this inspires you. Thank you! You should definitely take the leap and do it. This is proof that you can—I had zero experience with editing software before.

  10. Your journey is really motivating. I tried shooting with an M8 yesterday without success and was feeling a bit discouraged, but your post came at the perfect time. Thank you for sharing.

  11. I lost it at picture 11—there are so many stars when you zoom in. It’s absolutely incredible. Pictures 15 and 16 are also amazing. What are they? I’ve never seen anything like those before. Please keep uploading!

    1. I’m glad you like them! The first image is the Eastern Veil Nebula, which is the remnant of a massive star that exploded thousands of years ago. What you’re seeing are shockwaves from that explosion colliding with surrounding gas and dust. As these shockwaves travel through space, they heat and energize the gas, causing it to glow in those colorful filaments.

      The second image is the Crescent Nebula, formed by a massive, hot star emitting powerful stellar winds. These winds collide with material the star previously shed, creating shockwaves that illuminate the gas and produce its glowing, bubble-like appearance.

  12. I understand the process of converting infrared photos to visible images, but I don’t know the technical terms for the tools involved. Thanks for sharing the video—I’ll take a look. Happy photographing!

    1. I should also clarify that narrowband colors are only accurate for certain targets rich in those specific emission lines. If there’s a third emission line you don’t have a filter for, the colors won’t be accurate. What you’re seeing in narrowband data is essentially a scientific visualization of emission lines, but for this particular target, it’s fairly accurate to real-world colors—just slightly more contrasted.

  13. What is the second-to-last image? Is it possible to capture similar images without a tracker? I have a Dobsonian 8-inch telescope, but I can only see the moon clearly, and even that moves out of view quickly.

    1. That’s the Eastern Veil Nebula. You can photograph it with some lucky imaging, but the results won’t be like this. If you have dark skies, you might glimpse it with a UHC filter.

        1. Try these adjustments to enhance your photo: reduce exposure by 25, lower brilliance by 100, increase highlights by 25, boost shadows by 35, raise contrast by 100, adjust brightness by 34, set black point to 100, decrease saturation by 37, reduce vibrance by 30, add warmth by 43, shift tint by 55, and apply noise reduction at 17.

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