Pour nettoyer la plaque du correcteur de mon tube optique Celestron 127SLT, je dois d'abord la retirer. Il n'y a pas de vis sur les bords de la plaque, mais plutôt un anneau de retenue étroit avec deux petits trous situés en face l'un de l'autre. Au début, j'ai pensé que ce pouvaient être des empreintes de vis hexagonales minuscules, d'environ 1 mm ou 1,5 mm de diamètre, mais cela ne semble pas être le cas. Je me demande si la bonne méthode consiste à insérer un outil dans ces trous pour dévisser l'anneau en le tournant.
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Ah, j’ai eu exactement la même hésitation avec ma 127SLT ! Ces deux petits trous sur la bague de retenue m’avaient aussi fait penser à des empreintes pour clé Allen, mais en réalité, il faut utiliser une petite pince à becs pointus qui s’insère dans les trous pour dévisser la bague en la faisant pivoter. C’est un mécanisme assez ingénieux une fois qu’on le connaît. Est-ce que tu as réussi à le faire sans rayer la plaque correctrice ?
Merci pour ce retour, c’est vrai que ces deux petits trous sont trompeurs et ta solution avec la pince à becs pointus est exactement la bonne méthode ! Pour éviter de rayer la plaque, je recommande de la manipuler uniquement par les bords et d’utiliser un chiffon microfibre très doux avec un nettoyant spécifique pour optiques une fois la bague retirée. N’hésite pas à me dire comment s’est passée la procédure de nettoyage de ton côté.
It’s likely a retaining ring. You’ll need a snap ring plier, which is a specialty tool available for around $5 at Harbor Freight. Insert the plier into the two holes and squeeze them together.
I bought a strap, and it worked to loosen the cell. I’ll have it dusted and cleaned internally in the morning. Thanks!
You only need to remove the corrector plate if the inside is dirty, which is unlikely in a sealed tube. For cleaning the outside, you can do so without removing the plate.
A poorly maintained Mak can allow debris to enter through the eyepiece hole. However, I agree that removing the corrector plate should only be considered as a last resort.
It’s possible but uncommon. I’ve seen people remove the plate for a full cleaning due to minor dust buildup, but reinserting it correctly is difficult, so it’s best reserved as a last resort.
Thank you. Perhaps the entire front unscrews, and I may have misunderstood. That’s excellent to know.
No problem. I also noticed the two small Allen grub screws in the lens holder and initially thought they were for removal. However, they may actually be for securing the lens in its holder or for factory installation purposes.
Yes, the corrector plate is fixed in place once manufactured.
I’ll mark the barrel, but is the corrector plate rotationally aligned with the main mirror from the factory?
Glad it worked. I doubt the MAK requires the corrector to be at a specific rotation. On the military-industrial scopes we worked with, we did rotate the corrector while observing an artificial star to find the best center in the diffraction pattern and minimize errors as much as possible. However, that isn’t necessary; we were just aiming for that last tiny bit of performance.
I thought so. You’re a legend. Thanks.
I was surprised by the weight of the corrector cell. There’s a lot of glass in there. The Mak seems almost as much refractor as reflector.
If the tube is threaded, it’s a large threaded retaining ring that requires an optical spanner for removal.
Why do you want to remove it?
If necessary, mark the orientation, remove the ring with the scope vertical, attach an automotive dent puller suction cup to the front of the corrector, turn the scope horizontally to prevent debris from falling on the mirror, and pull the corrector. Then clean the corrector cell.
Alternatively, you can make a spanner by clamping two mini screwdrivers to a metal bar with a C-clamp.
Thank you for your advice.
I wanted to remove the corrector plate because I purchased an OTA with the dovetail mount on the wrong side for my goto mount. I carefully drilled and fitted it on the other side so the tube is oriented correctly, and it functions perfectly.
However, there are now small metal particles inside that bother me, and I’d like to clean them out. They don’t seem to affect performance, but they are irritating. What are your thoughts?
To clarify, they aren’t exactly swarf but small metal bits—about six on the corrector plate, possibly two on the main mirror, and some stuck inside the tube.