لتنظيف لوحة تصحيح الصورة على وحدة أنبوب التلسكوب Celestron 127SLT، يجب أن أزيلها أولًا. لا توجد مسامير على طول حواف اللوحة، بل حلقة تحافظ ضيقة ذات فتحتين صغيرتين مواجهتين لبعضهما البعض. في البداية، ظننت أن هذه قد تكون فتحات مسامير مربعة صغيرة بحجم حوالي 1 مم أو 1.5 مم، ولكن يبدو أنه ليس كذلك. أتساءل ما إذا كان الطريقة الصحيحة تتضمن إدخال أداة في هذه الفتحات لفك الحلقة عن طريق دورانها.
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It’s likely a retaining ring. You’ll need a snap ring plier, which is a specialty tool available for around $5 at Harbor Freight. Insert the plier into the two holes and squeeze them together.
I bought a strap, and it worked to loosen the cell. I’ll have it dusted and cleaned internally in the morning. Thanks!
You only need to remove the corrector plate if the inside is dirty, which is unlikely in a sealed tube. For cleaning the outside, you can do so without removing the plate.
A poorly maintained Mak can allow debris to enter through the eyepiece hole. However, I agree that removing the corrector plate should only be considered as a last resort.
It’s possible but uncommon. I’ve seen people remove the plate for a full cleaning due to minor dust buildup, but reinserting it correctly is difficult, so it’s best reserved as a last resort.
Thank you. Perhaps the entire front unscrews, and I may have misunderstood. That’s excellent to know.
No problem. I also noticed the two small Allen grub screws in the lens holder and initially thought they were for removal. However, they may actually be for securing the lens in its holder or for factory installation purposes.
Yes, the corrector plate is fixed in place once manufactured.
I’ll mark the barrel, but is the corrector plate rotationally aligned with the main mirror from the factory?
Glad it worked. I doubt the MAK requires the corrector to be at a specific rotation. On the military-industrial scopes we worked with, we did rotate the corrector while observing an artificial star to find the best center in the diffraction pattern and minimize errors as much as possible. However, that isn’t necessary; we were just aiming for that last tiny bit of performance.
I thought so. You’re a legend. Thanks.
I was surprised by the weight of the corrector cell. There’s a lot of glass in there. The Mak seems almost as much refractor as reflector.
If the tube is threaded, it’s a large threaded retaining ring that requires an optical spanner for removal.
Why do you want to remove it?
If necessary, mark the orientation, remove the ring with the scope vertical, attach an automotive dent puller suction cup to the front of the corrector, turn the scope horizontally to prevent debris from falling on the mirror, and pull the corrector. Then clean the corrector cell.
Alternatively, you can make a spanner by clamping two mini screwdrivers to a metal bar with a C-clamp.
Thank you for your advice.
I wanted to remove the corrector plate because I purchased an OTA with the dovetail mount on the wrong side for my goto mount. I carefully drilled and fitted it on the other side so the tube is oriented correctly, and it functions perfectly.
However, there are now small metal particles inside that bother me, and I’d like to clean them out. They don’t seem to affect performance, but they are irritating. What are your thoughts?
To clarify, they aren’t exactly swarf but small metal bits—about six on the corrector plate, possibly two on the main mirror, and some stuck inside the tube.